Vancouver Island

EXPLORE VICTORIA AND THE WONDERS OF VANCOUVER ISLAND.

If your dollar won’t stretch to a European vacation, one alternative might be Alberta’s left-hand neighbour, British Columbia. July through September is an excellent time to visit Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. The weather is warm, and nature is at its finest. Whether shopping, dining or culture is your pleasure, this regional overview will get you ready to pack your bags.

Victoria

Sure, you’ve heard it called the home of the newlywed and the nearly dead, but BC’s capital isn’t the city you visited in the 90s. Recently praised in Vogue for its robust high-tech community and dedication to craft brewing, Victoria is both a family-friendly destination and a sophisticated city for those travelling without kids.

Most tourism focuses around the Inner Harbour, at the intersection of Government and Belleville streets. Here you’ll find the Royal British Columbia Museum, the Empress Hotel, BC’s Legislative Assembly grounds, access to city tours on double-decker buses, harbour tours on mini-ferries and whale-watching expeditions in Zodiacs. Close by you’ll find horse-drawn carriages, kayak rentals and numerous shopping destinations, including the newly renovated Market Square, Lower Johnson Street (one-of-a-kind boutiques) and Fort Street (Antique Row, plus galleries and specialty shops).

There’s, even more, to see if you leave the core. Here are a few Victoria-area “musts”:

Craigdarroch Castle—sumptuous former home of a Victorian industrialist;

Craigdarroch Castle Video

The Galloping Goose— former railway converted to a gorgeous multi-use trail;

Galloping Goose Trestle Bridge

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Fort Rodd Hill National Historic Site— 19th-century coastal defense installation featuring the Fisgard Lighthouse;

Fort Rodd Hill and Fisgard Lighthouse National Historic Sites

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Sidney by the Sea—

Canada’s Book Town, plus dozens of quaint shops;

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Butchart Gardens—

botanical wonderland.

Butchart Gardens

You might be surprised to learn Victoria is also a foodie paradise. Locally sourced, organically grown food is a priority in -Canada’s fittest capital. You’ve gotta eat, right?

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Salt Spring Island

Salt Spring Island

Take a float plane from Victoria’s Inner Harbour or a ferry from Swartz Bay, and you’ll arrive at Salt Spring Island, BC’s brilliant cultural destination. With a population of just over 10,000, Salt Spring boasts more artists and performers per capita than anywhere else in the province. Janet Clouston of the Salt Spring Island Chamber of Commerce says, “The arts and culture scene here is better than in some medium-sized cities. To be able to have what we have here and a small-town life experience is amazing!”

But Salt Spring Island is more than arts and culture. It also supports surprisingly diverse dining. From funky eateries like the Tree House Cafe to the grandeur of Hastings House (one of the West Coast’s most-praised restaurants), there’s something for every palate, much of it locally grown. Salt Spring Island has more than 200 active farms, including three vineyards. You can shop the farmers’ market in Ganges every Tuesday afternoon from June through October.

Want just a taste? Visit on a Saturday. From April until late October, you’ll find the gigantic Salt Spring Market in Centennial Park in Ganges. Nearly 150 artisans take part in the market annually, and everything is made or grown on the island—part of Salt Spring’s authentic charm.

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Nanaimo

Nanaimo, north of Victoria, is Vancouver Island’s new “It” destination. Mountains, beaches, marine life—what’s not to love?

Founded as a trading post, Nanaimo grew into a coal-mining hub and later a forestry centre. For decades it was little more than a stopping point for visitors heading to Victoria and Tofino or exploring the Gulf Islands. But today, Nanaimo offers festivals, street performers, museums and water-based activities. It also shares Victoria’s mild, sunny climate and the West Coast commitment to locally grown, locally made food and drink.

If you have a boating background, you should know that Nanaimo is an increasingly popular base for folks chartering sailboats and powerboats. Nanaimo’s mid-island location is perfect for boaters travelling north into Desolation Sound or south into the Gulf Islands. On a boat, you have unparalleled access to the incredible Georgia Basin and its many tiny communities, which host some 200,000 visitors annually.

Driving to Nanaimo from Victoria? Be sure to visit Chemainus. Featuring dozens of outdoor murals, glorious views of Stuart Channel and yummy baking and ice cream, it’s a delightful stop.

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Port McNeill

Nanaimo is often the end of a journey up island, but visitors who keep going north will discover a wild landscape and numerous small, welcoming communities, including Port McNeill. Graham McNeil, who’s lived in Port McNeill since 1970, says the town “has the reputation for being one of the friendliest towns on the coast.”

Port McNeill is the gateway to northern Vancouver Island and the Broughton Archipelago. Visitors enjoy fishing, boating, ecotourism, caving, camping and more in this small town. You can view grizzly bears in the towering wilderness of Knight Inlet, just a boat ride away, and the Broughtons is one of the coast’s top areas to watch whales.

Port McNeill is connected by ferry to historic Alert Bay, home of the world-class U’Mista Centre, a museum of aboriginal heritage. Plan to spend several hours there. Another short ferry ride takes you to Sointula on Malcolm Island, originally settled as a utopian cooperative. If you go, drop by the town museum—it’s fascinating!

En route to McNeill, or as a day trip out, visit Telegraph Cove, a charming micro-village (population 20!). The boardwalks and historic buildings reflect an industrial past, but today it’s a quiet place for relaxation and exploration.

With so much to see and do, Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands really are a paradise next door. The most difficult part of your trip may be convincing yourself to come home. t8n

Three Cheers for BC Beer

Eager to explore Victoria’s craft beer pubs? Here are four you won’t want to miss.

Garrick’s Head Pub (1140 Government Street)

Swans Brewpub (506 Pandora Avenue)

Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub and Guesthouses (308 Catherine Street)

Moon Under Water (350B Bay Street)

Local breweries host tours—with tastings—throughout the year.

Vancouver Island Fun Facts

Whale sightings along the east side of Vancouver Island peak in August and September.

The Royal BC Museum says six of BC’s 34 First Nation languages were spoken on Vancouver Island. Many are now being rediscovered by a new generation.

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